Sunday, November 30, 2014

Day 14: Hiroshima

I woke up this morning feeling not too crash hot - my cold seems to be a bit flu like and the pain is in my feet and my back. But I soldiered on, because today was an extremely exciting day.

It began with a trip to Miyajima Island. This island is quite famous for its maple trees, although we did miss the peak by one week, which was a shame, as well as their woodwork. Local trinkets include the wooden rice scoop, which was invented to subsidise the local economy as the island is too small and considered too sacred to allow for farming. Much like Nara Park, the island is full of deer, although these deer are not fed by tourists or locals and as such are less likely to approach - although if they smell food they will stalk you persistently. I did see a few tourists that needed deer restraining orders. We explored a couple of the smaller shrines on our way to our major tourist stops, whilst avoiding the cars that ran about the narrow streets. Apparently, there are only four taxis on the island due to small demand and difficulty in driving.


100 stairs from a shrine down to the main street level - and a deer

View of the island from one of the shrines

Back up to the shrine

The island's famous rice scoop - XXL size

Across the water to Hiroshima
The first stop was Itsukushima Shrine, famous for its gate that exists in the sea. As it was low tide, we actually could walk out to the gate across a bed of sand and seaweed. The shrine itself consists of five separate shrines and is considered a World Heritage Site. The gate has been rebuilt eight times due to rot or typhoon damage. The roof of the shrine was actually made of Cyprus bark pressed together. Every so often the roof starts to peel, or is destroyed in a typhoon and must be replaced, so it is a very high maintenance building.

First gate to the Shrine

Me and the main tori gate - as you can see it was accessible today due to low tide

The main Tori Gate - you can see that the base of the pillars has been replaced due to rot

View of the Shrine

The gate from the shrine

Compressed Cyprus bark for the roof

View of the Buddhist Pavilion

Imperial Bridge - so highly arched it required makeshift stairs to actually be used
Our next stop was a short hike through Omoto Park followed by a visit to Daishoin Temple. The climb was reasonable long, but the view was totally worth it. This temple was also heavily focussed on bringing good luck to visitors, as well as making it easier on the everyday worshipper to gain the most value for their efforts (such as including easier ways to access all the eighty eight shrines for this form of Buddhism (associated with the Dalai Llama) as well as being able to read the complicated Sutra, Buddhist teachings. In a seemingly appropriate way, the bottle of coke I bought at the temple told me to "Be Happy."
A deer in what was left of the autumn leaves
View from the Temple over the Island

The decorated shrine - including a sand painting (in the frame)

A cave containing soil from all 88 Buddhist temples

Lucky seven gods - if you landed a coin on their rock you would be blessed with luck

Speak No Evil, See no Evil, Hear no Evil

Buddha's in Beanies! (Depictions of Buddha's disciples with warm hats donated by worshippers)

Coke is feeling very zen right now.
We had free time after this temple visit and decided to continue our nature walk before experiencing the very busy shopping strip full of tourist items. We went up to the Buddhist temple known as the Hall of 1000 Tatami Mats (due to its size) which was actually incomplete due to the death of the primary funder and as such has no doors nor windows. I also managed to watch the making of the very famous Maple Momiji - a sweet cakey biscuit infused with Maple syrup and occasionally filled with sweet red bean paste. For lunch we had an island speciality - deep fried oysters. They didn't taste like anything (although that could be because I am sick), but the colour of the inside and the texture was pretty off putting, despite some really really good tartar sauce. 

A nice little river

Some fish in a pond outside a traditional hotel. They expected to be feed and swam over when we approached

A very fashionable dog in the streets

The Hall of 1000 Tatami Mats

View from the Hall

Maple Momiji Making

After lunch we caught the ferry back to the mainland. By this time it had started to rain, almost in anticipation of our next location - Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. This was an incredibly sobering experience, starting at the foot of the A-bomb dome (the closest surviving building to the hypocentre of the blast), then walking through the park seeing numerous monuments calling for peace and the abolition of nuclear weapons. Most notablly, we saw the Children's Memorial, that was built following the death of Sadako (of Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes). Around the Memorial was clear plastic boxes that contained thousands of paper cranes, in every colour, making pictures or long strings. It was a really moving moment to be standing there.

A view stepping off the bus - the A-bomb dome

Standing on the targeted bridge (which survived the blast, but has since been rebuilt)

Target bridge, about 200m from the hypo-centre of the blast

The A-bomb dome - before and after

Crane at the Children's Peace Monument

Children's Peace Monument
Our next stop was the Peace Museum. On the way we passed the flame that will burn until all nuclear bombs in the world are disarmed (so probably will, sadly, be eternal) and the arch which lines up the flame and the dome. I wasn't able to get the perfect shot due to someone else standing there for a solid ten minutes in the way, using three different cameras for the photo (not even different lensed DSLR either.) So that was disappointing. However, the Museum itself is phenomenal. There is really no other way to describe it. I have no words for the get wrenching sensation I experienced as I saw photos of the city after the bomb, the way students clothes had been burned, the images of people with charred black skin or the shadows of people on granite. Whilst the exhibits were repetitive, literally tens of burnt uniforms from school children were displayed, each item is matched with a personal story and then to top it off, videos of survivors explaining their experiences in vivid detail. I doubt anyone could walk out of there and not have felt something.

The flame against Nuclear Weapons

The arch showing the flame and the dome

A year 7 students burnt uniform - they were working to demolish buildings as fire-breaks before the bomb struck

A diorama showing the destruction and the hypocentre

Three student's clothing was assembled to show a full outfit


Life-sized model of the Little Boy bomb

The shadow of someone waiting at the bank when the bomb struck

Cast Iron doors blown open by the bomb

Melted Rooftiles

White sheet stained by the radioactive black rain that fell after the explosion - some survivors died after drinking this rain due to desperate thirst.
After completing the museum it was back on the bus to the station for a very long Shinkansen trip across the country back to Toyko, where we will remain until our flight home in eight days. It is already the end of November, incredible to believe. With only one week left in the trip, it is time to make the most of our upcoming free time, to explore and see the sights, because all too soon we will be back on the plane home.

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